Parka |
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Due
to my hope of continuing high altitude climbing,
I purchased the parka that is supplied by RMI
on Rainier summit climbs, the Mountain Hardwear
Sub Zero Parka. Whatever is purchased, the
parka may be either goose down or synthetic fill
with at least two inches of insulation thickness.
It needs to fit over all of your clothing layers,
including your wind shell. An attached, insulated
hood is recommended. You will find that wind jackets
with zip-in liners or down sweaters are not warm
enough for a Rainier climb. |
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Shell
Jacket |
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You
will need a jacket made of rain/wind resistant
material with an attached hood for your climb.
This will be the jacket you will wear for the
majority of the climb (except for breaks) from
Camp Muir to the summit. Below you will see two
jackets. The first jacket is a Columbia brand
jacket, Titanium (waterproof and breathable),
I picked up on sale and was very warm on my summit
climb. The second jacket is a Mountain Hardwear
Alchemy Jacket, which would also do well
on the climb. |
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Shell
Pants |
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A
pant made of rain/wind resistant material will
be needed for the climb. Full-length side zippers
are a great option, facilitating quick clothing
adjustments over boots and crampons. I found the
Mountain Hardwear Tenacity Pants (shown
below) recommended by RMI to be an outstanding
selection for comfort, warmth and ventilation. |
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Trekking
Poles |
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One
can choose just about any trekking poles for this
climb. These poles are typically used from Paradise
to Camp Muir and are very helpful in stability
and taking the weight off your legs. From Camp
Muir, you will be solely using your ice axe. I
use the LEKI Makalu model, which I have
used in a variety of weather and conditions -
a a very sturdy brand that is adjustable to various
heights and needs. |
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Gloves/Mittens |
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I
brought three pair of gloves to Mt. Rainier. I
didn't have a need for gloves from Paradise to
Camp Muir. The first pair (shown below) were used
when starting out from Camp Muir, but I found
that my hands became too cold over the climb up
through Disappointment Cleaver. From this pair
of standard Mountain Gear gloves, I switched
to a thicker pair of gloves (2nd picture below),
Columbia Converts, and they were warm
enough to the summit and back down. Although I
brought a pair of Marmot mittens, I never
used them. When wearing mittens, you have the
disadvantage of not getting the same grip on your
ice axe as you would with fingered gloves. I would
recommend glovers over mittens on the climb to
the summit. |
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Hiking
Socks/Liners |
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I
prefer either Ultimax or Smart Wool
brand hiking socks, combined with a white sock
liner. I suggest bringing two pairs of socks and
liners on the hike - one for the climb to Camp
Muir and one for the summit climb from Camp Muir.
Upon returning to Camp Muir from the summit, change
socks to the first pair so that you have a dry
pair for the rest of the climb down. |
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Crampons |
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Not
having much technical knowledge of crampons, I
went with RMI's recommendation and purchased the
Grivel G10 Crampons. The 10 to 12 point
adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering
are ideal. Rigid frame crampons designed for technical
ice climbing are not recommended since snow tends
to ball up beneath them and make the descent more
difficult. If you bring your own crampons, bring
the appropriate repair kit/replacement parts and
adjusting tools. |
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Hiking
Boots |
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Double
plastic boots are the preferred choice, and
are in fact the perfect tool, for ascents such
as Mount Rainier. They provide the best insulation
as well as a more rigid sole for kicking steps
and fitting crampons.
Lightweight
hiking boots are not acceptable as they don’t
work well with crampons, or in very cold or
wet weather.
The
boots I chose to wear on my summit climb in
2005 were the Koflach Degre boots (shown
below). They are very comfortable - if worn
correctly. They MUST be laced loosely so as
to not give you shin blisters on the climb upward
and to allow some movement of your foot on the
climb downward. Unless you are planning to do
extensive high altitude climbing, RMI has these
specific boots - in all sizes - for rental on
your climb.
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Water
Bottle(s) |
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Pictured
below is your standard Nalgene 32 oz.
water bottle. You will want to carry at least
two of these containers for your summit climb.
I prefer to bring three, but that is for you
to decide.
You
will NOT want to bring a water pouch/tubing
combination for the very reason that water may
freeze up in the tube while summiting.
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Balaclava |
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This
piece of garment is one of personal preference.
At 13,600 ft. elevation with a 35+ mph wind, it
was well worth bringing. There is no need to buy
a high end balaclava - just purchase one that
feels comfortable and breathes. |
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Compression
Bags |
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You
will streamline your gear to only what you absolutely
need (minus your sleeping bag) to bring to the
summit. However, compression bags are handy in
compressing your clothing items and sleeping bag
down to take up much less more space in your backpack.
These bags can be purchased at Target, Scheel's,
REI, etc. |
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Winter
Hat |
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I
would suggest going with a hat that is most comfortable
for you, but something that can be pulled over
the ears. You most likely will not need this on
the climb to Camp Muir (10,000 ft. elevation),
but you will need to wear it under your climbing
helmet from Camp Muir to the summit. I've chosen
to be comfortable in an Under Armour Performance
Apparel hat. |
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Glacier
Glasses |
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In
order to adequately protect your eyes, a pair
of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or
full wrap-type sunglasses are required. I have
found over the years that a number of wrap-type
sunglasses have fogged up on me. The Julbo
Nomad shades I chose didn't fog up at all
and I was able to purchase them on sale for a
reasonable price..
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Helmet |
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Upon
reaching Camp Muir, each climber will be issued
a helmet, harness and avalanche beacon that must
be worn from Camp Muir to the summit. These helmets
are adjustable and comfortable, combined with
a warm winter hat. |
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Baseball
Cap |
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Bring
a comfortable hat to wear on the climb to Camp
Muir - it will block the sun and help keep your
head warm. I chose to go with the standard RMI
baseball cap that I picked up at the Whittaker's
Mountaineering (formerly Summit Haus), right at
the RMI Basecamp. It is THE most comfortable baseball
cap I've ever worn. |
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Lip
Balm/Sunscreen |
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Take
your pick, but you're going to need to bring both.
I can't stress enough how bright the sun is above
8000 ft. elevation, especially on a clear day.
Bring it and use it often. |
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Base
Layer |
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NO
COTTON. I repeat again, no cotton clothing (except
maybe your underwear) - you will need clothing
that quickly dries and wicks the sweat away from
your body. One long-sleeve, light or medium weight
synthetic type top and one pair of light or medium
weight pants will be used as your base layer.
Light colored tops are ideal, since dark colors
absorb heat from the sun, and neck zippers will
provide extra ventilation. I chose a Polar
Max shirt and Marmot base layer.
With the Mountain Hardwear Tenacity Pants,
I didn't even need to use the Marmot
base layer for the summit climb. |
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Headlamp |
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With
an “alpine start" (leaving Camp Muir
after midnight), you will travel approximately
four to six hours in the dark. It is imperative
to have a good headlamp. A headlamp that uses
a 4.5 volt battery is a great option because it
lasts longer in cold conditions. The more powerful
LED lights also work well. Headlamps that use
AA batteries will require that you bring a total
of three full sets of batteries. Also, bring an
extra headlamp bulb. I chose to use a Princeton
Solo Tec headlamp, with the adjustable lamp.
This was very handy in being able to angle the
light better on to the summit path. I also didn't
need to change batteries on the entire hike to
the summit. |
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Ice
Axe |
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| It
is recommended that
an ice axe of 60 to 70 cm. in length be used.
If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably
at your side, the spike of the axe should still
be a few inches above the ground.
After
having seen the ice axes that are rented out by
RMI, I would recommend - if you can afford it
-to purchase your own, one that is appropriate
for your height. It makes a wonderful keepsake
after your summit climb. I chose to purchase a
Black Diamond Raven Pro Ice Axe, with
strap. If purchasing an ice axe, be sure to order
an ice axe guard or cover for the axe head so
it doesn't tear up your luggage.
Please
note that third picture below. It is important
to be aware that if you purchase your own ice
axe, it will not return in pristine condition.
The gauges out of the lower ice axe handle are
due to the constant need to tap your crampons
on your descent, so as to prevent the balling
of snow up under your boot and crampons. Just
one more reminder that this is not a casual walk
in a national park.
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Backpack |
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RMI
recommends a 4,000 – 5,000 cubic inch
pack, which is the average recommended size
for a Rainier climb. Anything smaller will be
too small for the gear you will be carrying.
When
loaded, the pack should have about 70 percent
of the weight riding on the hips and about 30
percent on the shoulders.
I've
chosen (see image below) a North Face Badlands
60 for my 4000 cubic inch pack. It is an internal
pack that rides very well on the hips and can
be pulled in tight to the body.
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Sleeping
Bag |
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A
sleeping bag rated to 20° F will keep you
warm on your summit climb. A small deviation is
fine. You may use either goose down or synthetic
sleeping bags. Sleeping pads are provided at Camp
Muir.
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Gaiters |
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A
knee-length pair of gaiters (coverings for your
boot and lower pants), large enough to fit over
your mountaineering boots, will be needed. This
will keep your socks and boots dry and protect
you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
I
chose medium-priced but very comfortable/flexible
gaiters called Threshold.
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